What actually happens if the chiller is undersized?

During busy service, the chiller cannot recover fast enough to maintain temperature. Beer arrives at the faucet warmer than it should be, which causes CO2 to break out of solution — the direct cause of excessive foam. The compressor also runs without rest, which accelerates wear and leads to early breakdown.

Is it okay to buy a larger chiller just to be safe?

Oversizing creates its own problems. A chiller that is too large for the load it is serving will short cycle — it reaches the set temperature too quickly, shuts off, then kicks back on again in rapid succession. This stresses the compressor, shortens equipment life and wastes energy. Sizing accurately is genuinely better than sizing large.

What glycol-to-water ratio should I use?

35% propylene glycol to 65% water is the industry standard for draft beer systems. This ratio provides freeze protection down to roughly 0°F and supports efficient heat transfer. Higher glycol concentrations are thicker and less efficient at moving heat.

Do all beer lines in the trunk need to be in contact with the glycol line?

Yes. Every active beer line in the trunk needs to be in continuous contact with a glycol line. Any line that is not will pick up heat over the length of the run, leading to temperature inconsistency and foam problems at the tap.

Can one chiller serve multiple tap towers?

Yes, as long as the total BTU load — all taps combined, across all towers and their respective distances — is within the chiller's rated capacity. This is why calculating total system load, not just per-tower load, is important.

How far can a glycol chiller reach?

It depends on the model. BeverageCraft's range covers systems from 25-foot runs (entry-level portable units) up to 850-foot runs (the ChillPro 13000). Most bars and restaurants fall within the 125–450 foot range.

How often should the glycol be replaced?

Once a year is the standard recommendation for most commercial systems. If you notice reduced cooling performance, visible discolouration in the glycol, or unusual odours, replace it sooner and check the system for contamination.

How often should I clean my draft beer lines?

Commercial systems need cleaning every two weeks — the Brewers Association baseline. High-volume bars often need weekly cleaning. Home kegerators can stretch to 2–3 weeks, but if you are pouring less than a quarter-keg a week, stay closer to two weeks.

Do I really need both caustic and acid cleaners?

Yes. They solve different problems. Caustic cleaners remove organic material: yeast, proteins, hop residue, sugars. Acid cleaners dissolve mineral deposits and beer stone. You can run a perfect caustic cycle every two weeks and still have beer stone building up inside your lines the whole time. Both cleaners are necessary.

Can I just flush with water instead of using chemicals?

No. Water moves residue around but has no cleaning chemistry. Biofilm anchors itself to plastic and metal surfaces and resists flushing. Mineral deposits like beer stone are physically bonded to the line interior. Flushing with water after a pour is fine as a quick rinse but is not a substitute for chemical cleaning.

Does temperature affect how often I should clean?

Yes. Warmer temperatures accelerate microbial metabolism, meaning biofilm develops faster in systems with uncooled line sections or inadequate glycol chilling. A system running above 45°F (7°C) in any section will need more frequent cleaning than the standard two-week schedule.

What tools do I need for proper beer line cleaning?

For a home kegerator: a pressurized cleaning bottle, alkaline cleaner, faucet brush, and basic tools to remove faucets and couplers. For a commercial bar with longer lines, a recirculation pump is worth the investment because the mechanical action clears established biofilm more effectively than a static soak.

What is beer stone and how do I get rid of it?

Beer stone is a hard calcium oxalate crust that forms when minerals in beer react with proteins and permanently bond to the interior surfaces of lines, faucets and stainless components. Regular alkaline cleaners cannot remove it. You need an acid-based cleaner at the correct concentration. For most systems, a quarterly acid wash is enough to stay ahead of it.

When should I replace beer lines instead of cleaning them?

Two years of heavy service is a reasonable rule of thumb for vinyl tubing, but the real answer is: when cleaning stops working. If you have run a proper caustic and acid cycle and off-flavours are still coming through, the line itself is the problem and needs replacing.

Can MobiChill handle high-volume festivals?

Yes. The MobiChill's energy-accumulating aluminum cooling block stores cold energy and releases it on demand, maintaining consistent performance even during busy back-to-back service periods at high-volume events.

Does MobiChill work with wine, cider, or other beverages?

Yes. MobiChill dry-cooling dispensers are designed for all types of draft beverages including beer, wine, cider and other carbonated or non-carbonated drinks served on draft.

How quickly is MobiChill ready to serve?

The unit reaches optimal pouring temperature in approximately 15 minutes from startup, making it practical for fast event setup.

Is power access always available at events?

Most modern events have standard electrical outlets available. For off-grid situations where power is not accessible, traditional ice-based jockey boxes remain a practical alternative.

Plastic Shive

$2.99

SKU:

KGCASKP003

Shipping:

Calculated at Checkout

Description

A plastic shive bung for cask ale is the most helpful cask part for anyone who wants to transport their real ale!
This plastic shive bung for cask keg is useful for a brewery that likes to bring their homebrew casks conditioned beer to festivals or anyone who wants to bring their real ale on the go. It is inserted into the shive on the side of your cask for a tight seal.

Plastic Shive Bung for Cask Keg Features

Made of strong, durable plastic that holds up well during transport
Easy to install and use—just pop it into the cask shive hole for a secure, worry‑free fit
Forms a tight, airtight seal so you don’t lose any of your real ale on the way to the festival or the bar
Simple to remove and swap for a spile—just pull it out and replace it with a hard or soft spile when you’re ready to vent CO2 and serve